The last rack is filled with wood and covered with tarps. It has been very rainy in my area so getting the fire wood covered and drying this summer is critical. I’m finishing up the last small pile of Doug fir I’m stacking on the concrete walk way between the wood racks. This wood I’ll add to the porch fire wood rack first to burn and start cutting into kindling this summer to fill the new kindling box. It is tempting just to chuck the last of the firewood into the open section between the wood racks but I have done that before and found the stack wood dried better plus it is easier to gather stacked fire wood when the weather gets cold and blustery. I was a discouraged for a time moving the wood Sunday but after that pile wood was stacked the remaining pile of wood went much faster as I was only walking about 16 -24 feet with each arm load of wood.
My wood racks are 8 ft. x 4 ft. by about 18 inches deep so they only hold about a “face” cord rather than a true cord of wood. I can stack wood between my wood racks on a concrete base over 24 feet long, I’ll stack the remaining fire wood so I know I’m getting delivered about a cord “128 sq.feet” of fire wood. There will always be a few gaps when stacking wood, but if you come out with 128 sq. feet of wood you have a “cord”of fire wood. If you use tarps to protect your wood I’d recommend buying tarps at least 10 ft x 12 ft. long. With 8 foot long tarps you don’t have any overhang to cover the fire wood racks.
The wood under the carport is a jumble right now but with the wood Mom hauled away I have room to work stacking the remaining fire wood. Most of this wood is cut to length for a wood stove but will need to be split to work in my wood stove. Mom filled her truck with the smaller/split wood to fill her truck as well as fit her little wood stove. I am okay with that as I have more tools to cut and split wood plus my wood stove has a larger firebox. I’m still digging around this wood pile but it looks like we got some elm, white maple along with a mix of fruit wood, pine and some poplar. Mow I’m no expert on fire wood but in the last couple of years I hope I have gotten a bit better at identifying wood. I’m not a big fan of elm but I love white maple. Fruit woods like apple and cherry burn clean, hot and long but are almost impossible to split with an axe. I’ll be doing a lot of cutting with my little chainsaws getting some of the wood into usable sizes.
I got a 3 pound splitting maul that should help split and stack the wood under the carport. I have to sharpen all of axes and mauls, but I have all of the tools to cut and split all of my fire wood. I think I will get another 2 cords of poplar around August or September. I know many people poo-poo pine, fir or using poplar as firewood. I really like poplar as a fire wood. Poplar burns clean, is easy to start and burns about as long as Doug fir and poplar cheaper about $100.00 per cord than Doug fir, from my supplier. It seems that poplar has a straight grain though many knots/ branches in that tree. The little 3 pound maul cut trough a small bit of poplar easily even using a dull edge maul.
Stay away from using a Star type maul unless you are using a hydraulic or powered wood splitter. If you are splitting wood using muscle power a simple wedge type maul will take less effort to split wood. I suspect I’ll be using my 3 pound splitting wedge to start on the wood and then use my 3 pound sledge to drive the maul through the chunk of wood. It will be slow, but it is what I can handle with my physical limitations. I bet there are a lot of people that have the stamina to swing a 3 pound sledge for several hours, that would be worn out swing an 8-12 splitting maul for an hour or 2 especially if they never split fire wood in their life.
I just want split fire wood ready to burn for winter. If I work 20 minutes a couple time per day every other day for the next 5 months and I have my fire wood ready to burn by October. I’m good to go this winter. If I could do the same job in two weeks in June it would not change the fact that the wood is ready to burn in October.
I’m a little peeved I got a nasty gram from the city about weeds in my alley area when we have had almost daily rain and they demand I kill the weeds that no one in Idaho has every proven capable of killing. It is annoying as I have added a lot of rock and mulch to add drainage and I’m trying to build the soil that won’t give weeds good growing area. I don’t use weedkiller/Roundup because I’m trying to build up the soil to support good plants. Building soil takes time, even years and my weeds are not that bad plus weeds can be good as the hold bad soil in place. I hate cheat grass and goat heads but until you improve the soil and replace the bad plants, the weed problem will remain a problem. All the city of Nampa is the weeds are not tall of unsightly. Making good soil or growing healthy plants is far down on the list.
Sorry for the rant, I got some mossy rose/portaluca to add to my alley way garden bed. I have a bit of good dirt and the sun chokes are doing okay coming back. I’m a bit pissed about the edicts from the City of Nampa but I’m still trying to make the alley way garden the best it can be as a healthy garden.